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Starting Plants from Seed

Materials needed

  1. Clean, sterile vessels (any of the following)
    1. 4 inch plastic pots
    2. plastic cups with drainage holes cut in base
    3. peat pellets (see Method 2 below)
    4. shallow tray for broadcast seed, such as for lettuce or other very fine seeds
  2. The planting medium - Soil free medium such as pre-packaged seed starting mix or more economically, mix equal parts peat moss and perlite
  3. Sanitized container for dampening planting medium (I use a stainless steel bowl that can be cleaned and put through the dishwasher)
  4. Skewers and plastic bags or a clear plastic bin with a cover
  5. Heating pad
  6. Popsicle stick, pencil or spoon
  7. Spray bottle for misting

How to do it - Method 1

  1. Place some of the planting medium into the bowl and add just enough water to wet the medium until it clumps when you squeeze it in your hand. Don't make drippy or the seeds will rot.
  2. Fill the pots or cups with the planting medium to about 1/2 inch from the top
  3. Use the pencil or popsicle stick to poke a hole to the depth of the seed depth planting instructions as shown on the seed packet.
  4. Gently cover the seeds with soil
  5. Place containers into the bin or place skewers into each container to hold up the plastic bags
  6. Use the spray bottle to mist the surface of the planting medium
  7. Cover the bin with the lid loosely or poke a few holes in the plastic bag and cover the pot
  8. Set the heating pad on a table or counter out of direct sunlight. Light isn't required for the sprouting part of this process. Turn the heat to low.
  9. Place bin or plastic covered pots on the heating pad

How to do it - Method 2 - peat pellets

  1. Rehydrate the peat pellets in warm water - they should increase to at least 1 inch tall
  2. Use the pencil or popsicle stick to poke a whole to the proper planting depth as shown on the seed packet
  3. Press the medium back over the hole and place into a bin or tray to be covered with plastic
  4. Proceed as above beginning at step 7

If you're using the plastic bin (the method I prefer for ease of use) open and check the surface of the planting medium each day. If it's dry, mist again with water. Plants like lettuce and crucifers often will sprout within one to three days using this method. Also some flowers sprout very quickly. Other types of seeds will sprout in 4 days up to two weeks. Seeds have enough food in the endosperm to sustain them for up to a month.

If you're using the plastic bag covered pots method, you should remove the bag every couple of days to check for surface dryness. If dry, mist with the spray bottle and recover.

The purpose of the heating pad and bin/bags is to create a warm, slightly humid environment such as early springtime weather. Don't leave the sprouted seedlings in this environment or you may end up with damping off or mildew.

As soon as the seeds sprout, remove them from the covered bin and place into bright, indirect light. The first two leaves to appear will be what are known as seed leaves. The next leaves will be true leaves. Once your seedling has two sets of true leaves, they can be planted into regular containers with potting soil.

Herbs are often among the more difficult for me to start. The exceptions are parsley, basil, fennel and mustard. Fennel and mustard, being used as vegetables in addition to being herbs, work like chard, collards or other greens. For woody herbs like oregano, rosemary and thyme, I usually use layering instead of staring from seed. It takes longer, but is incredibly easy. On the other hand, herbs like parsley, basil, cilantro, dill, stinging nettle, etc. can be started from seed, but seem to be more prone to damping off. Damping off is when the plant dies at the soil/ground level. It's caused by bacteria or disease and is the reason to use soil-less medium to start seeds. Herb seedlings should be observed closely for signs of distress, moisture and light.

Note 1 If it takes longer than two weeks to sprout, you may need to feed with a water soluble food at 1/8 to 1/4 strength. Another reason for slow sprouting could be your lighting is be wrong for the particular plant.

Note 2 If you don't have instructions for planting depth, you can try a general rule of depth approximately two times the length of the seed.

Note 3 If when your seedlings begin to grow they seem leggy, that is, long lengths of stems between leaves or leaf sets, it is probably because they need closer, brighter indirect light.

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